Saint Pierre and Miquelon, France in North America
Saint Pierre and Miquelon is an overseas collectivity of France situated near the Canadian provinces of Newfoundland and Labrador. The archipelago consists of eight islands; they used to belong to the territory of New France, which existed from 1534 to 1763. There were three settlements on the islands of Saint Pierre, Miquelon-Langlade, and Isle-aux-Marins; the latter existed until 1945 when it was united with the municipality of Saint Pierre. Today, with the increase in tourism popularity, the islands maintain the image of "France in North America".
Meanwhile, Saint Pierre and Miquelon's inhabitants established more and more tourist attractions. Currently, there are six hotels, not including B&Bs and AirBnBs, and 13 eateries on Saint Pierre, with several located on Isle aux Marins. Modern island culture fascinates with its mixed character, with Basque and French traditions intertwined. However, the main attraction for tourists coming to Saint Pierre and Miquelon is its numerous hiking trails.
The Islands of the Archipelago
Despite the name, Saint Pierre and Miquelon aren’t just two islands. In fact, these are three larger islands and five smaller ones. The largest islands are Miquelon (northern part) and Langlade (southern part), which are connected by a sandy isthmus (Dune de Langlade), making the two look like a dumbbell; the smaller island is Saint Pierre, the most populous one. The capital of the archipelago, also called Saint Pierre, is located there.
Location
Saint Pierre and Miquelon lie just off the coast of the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador. They are separated by the 19-km (12-mi) wide Gulf of St. Lawrence (estimated from Point Nay on the Burin Peninsula to the westernmost point of St. Pierre), near its entrance to Fortune Bay.
Economically, Saint Pierre and Miquelon is closely intertwined with its closest neighbour, especially with its eastern part — the Burin Peninsula. The town of Fortune is connected to the archipelago with a daily ferry service. Many islanders often travel to Newfoundland for shopping, work, or education.
Nature
Saint Pierre and Miquelon is proud of its preserved and diverse nature, featuring sea, lagoons, moors, forests, sand, and rocks. As for wildlife, it counts over 300 bird species; the seas are inhabited by fish, dolphins, whales, and rorquals. The archipelago has a lot of fantastic landscapes lined with multiple hiking trails, which are both a major reason for travellers to come here and a favourite pastime of local people. Let’s explore some of the trails.
Miquelon
- The Cormorandiere Valley: a round-trip walk allowing to discover Miquelon’s fauna and flora. Full fare is €25; reduced fare is €20.
- Anse aux Soldats: starting at the pebble bank and finishing at the end of the Anse du Gouverment, past the Fond de l’Anse River and the summit of Tete Pelee and a floodplain.
- Cape of Miquelon: the trail passes the Etang du Lac, Etang de la Roche, la Cormorandiere lookout; then either towards Nid a l’Aigle or l’Anse a la Roche; the finish is in the Village of Miquelon (via the Butte aux Berrys).
Saint Pierre
- L’Anse a Dinand: the trail passing through three natural settings typical for Saint Pierre and Miquelon — the bog, the subarctic meadow, and the undergrowth; a splendid view of Miquelon-Langlade Island; a possibility to spot marine mammals.
- L’Anse a Henry: a well-marked trail with benches; the distance is 4.8 km; the elevation gain is 94 m.
- Escapade Insulaire: features moon-like landscapes with ponds, streams, and cliffs; the most athletic hike opted either for half a day or a full day; on your way, you will discover a teepee with a wood stove where you can stay overnight. Fares apply (from €200 to €410 depending on a route and number of participants).
Marine Activities
Dory Tour is a ride on the archipelago’s traditional wooden fishing boats. During the tour you will learn about Saint Pierre and Miquelon’s sea history and catch some fish, which will be cooked for you at the end of the day. Single fare costs €50 or €90 depending on the programme.
Observation of marine wildlife is performed during the summer months on a zodiac. You will get a chance to see dolphins, whales, orcas, seals, puffins, and other mammal and bird species.
Grand Colombier tour suggests observing the natural migratory bird reserve on the island of Grand Colombier aboard a ship. Full fare is €17; reduced fare is €12.
Cap Perce tour is a ride aboard a ship to Cap Perce in Langlade. On your way, you will admire Miquelon’s amazing scenery and may spot some deer grazing along the coastline. Full fare is €19; reduced fare is €14.
Pointe Plate tour’s itinerary circles the coastline of Langlade which is home to a seal colony. You will also have an opportunity to see the Pointe Plate lighthouse. Full fare is €40; reduced fare is €35; group fare is also €35 (min. 15 participants).
Where to Buy Souvenirs
- Anne Creations: decorative objects, creative leisure materials, postcards (from €2).
- The Jardin Fleuri Art Gallery: exhibition and sale of Saint Pierre and Miquelon’s artisanal products (leather work, driftwood, paintings, philatelic books, etc.).
- Cheri’K Creations: a manufacture selling leather items and jewellery.
- Re-Creations: the gift and souvenir shop with unique hand-made items, also hosts workshops; and the perfumery with duty-free luxury perfumes.
- Art Passion (Miquelon): an art gallery with a shop offering local products — gourmet food specialty items and handcrafted items; a cafeteria with desserts and warm drinks.
Colourful Houses
One of Saint Pierre and Miquelon’s memorable features is its colourful wooden houses. Though there are no forests and almost no trees on the islands, most buildings are built of wood. They remind of the houses found in Nordic countries such as Greenland or Iceland. The wood has been shipped from Canada or eastern U.S. since the 19th century. Still, wooden houses proved less expensive than stone or brick ones.
Each house typically has an airlock where hosts or guests can take off outer clothes and shoes without bringing the cold inside. Historically, the wood of doors and windows was coated with paint containing an unusual ingredient — cod liver oil, which was used to preserve the paint. Those paints usually had red, yellow, or ochre colours. Bright colours began to be implemented in the 1950s, when island inhabitants came up with an idea to use the remains of the paint intended for their boats.
Today, multicoloured facades make the sometimes gloomy scenery of Saint Pierre and Miquelon look more cheerful, which is especially desirable during the winter season.
How To Get There
Travelling to Saint Pierre and Miquelon is possible either by plane or by boat. Flights from Canada are available all year long: a 45-minute flight from St. John’s, a 1-and-a-half-hour flight from Halifax, and a 3-hour-15-min flight from Montreal. Other flights include a 1-hour one from the Madelaine Islands and a 5-hour one from Paris, France. Mind that international flights are serviced only in summer.
Alternatively, you can reach Saint Pierre and Miquelon by ferry or private boat. Ferries operate between St. Pierre and Fortune, a town in southern Newfoundland (all year round), and between Miquelon and Fortune (from May to September).
Transportation Around the Archipelago
Like in the previous section, you can travel between Saint Pierre, Miquelon and Langlade either by boat or by plane. SPM Ferry operates on each of the three islands on a daily basis, with two rides every day.
Air connections are offered between Saint Pierre and Miquelon Monday to Friday, from 8:30 AM to 12 PM and from 1:30 PM to 5 PM. You can pay by cash, cheque, or a credit card, with Euros or Canadian Dollars.
As for transportation within an island, it is possible if you order a taxi, rent a minibus (with a driver), a car or a bike.
Where To Stay
Accommodation on Saint Pierre and Miquelon is represented by hotels and guest houses. Almost every one of them offers free shuttles from and to the ferry terminal/ airport.
Auberge Saint Pierre is the only starred (three-star) hotel in the archipelago. It is situated in the city centre and has been family-operated since 1963. Its cosy atmosphere combines authenticity and modernity, promising a relaxing stay. The hotel provides its guests with free breakfasts.
Les Terrasses du Port is a luxury stay with a gourmet restaurant, spa, and a fitness centre. It has 9 junior suites with kitchenettes, 3 superior suites, and 2 executive suites featuring two rooms, laundry, and a full kitchen.
Auberge Quatre Temps is a hotel set at the foot of a mountain in the vicinity of downtown. The property has a restaurant known for a blend of traditional and local cuisines. However, the hotel has only 6 rooms and 2 studios.
Hotel Robert is an oceanfront hotel located next to the port (2-minute walk from the ferry terminal). Within the hotel you will find a nice crêperie, Le Buddy. This is one of the largest hotels in the archipelago, featuring 43 rooms, 27 of which sleep up to two people, and 16 are designed for 4 people (with two queen beds).
Nuits Saint Pierre is an exquisitely decorated hotel in the city centre. Next door there is a fine restaurant, Le Cafe de la Gare, with breakfast included in the stay price. The house is pretty small, with 5 rooms, 3 of which have queen beds, and 2 have king-size beds.
Auberge de L’Ile is a cosy inn providing food service and island tours. Each of its 6 rooms has 2 queen beds and private bathrooms; baby beds are provided upon request.
Where to Eat
Saint Pierre and Miquelon are proud of following French gastronomy traditions and have plenty of restaurants, bakeries, and gourmet grocery shops.
Saint Pierre
- Le Roc Café: seasonal dishes, artisanal delicacies; a hidden garden terrace operating in the summer months.
- Le Bar a Quai: sophisticated cuisine based on local products; craft beer; live music in the evening; an art gallery.
- L’Ilot: a gourmet restaurant reflecting the archipelago’s history and culture; dishes based on seasonal products.
- L’Essentiel Creations Effet-Mer: simple authentic cuisine with local and organic products; culinary events; craft gallery; a selection of locally produced products (cheeses, ale, wine, etc.).
- Le Café de la Gare: Mediterranean cuisine; charcuterie, cheeses, pizza, desserts.
- La Select: a traditional brasserie balancing North American cuisine with French tradition; wood fired oven.
- Les P’tits Graviers: a family French restaurant using local seasonal products.
- Pizzeria Chez Alain: a wide selection of pizzas and take-out meals.
- La Maison Jezequel: hot drinks and homemade pastries; lunch service by reservation.
- La Feu de Braise: a traditional French restaurant located on a lively street in Saint Pierre.
- Les 2 Lapins: pizza, sushi, sandwiches, salads, pies, and pastries to go.
- The Marhaba: oriental cuisine take-out; cooking workshops by Chef.
- Le Buddy: the view of the old port; a varied food and drinks menu.
- Le Cafe Solidaire: fast and local food; inclusive approach to employment.
Miquelon
- Le Restaurant Brian: traditional French cuisine.
- Le Snack Bar-a-choix: fast meals without reservations; a setting featuring the plant and animal life of the archipelago.
- Art Passion: an art gallery with a shop offering local products and handcrafted items; a cafeteria with desserts and hot drinks.
Final Words
Saint Pierre and Miquelon are a great destination enabling you to experience France in the Western Hemisphere. Though it is different in some traits, such as climate and architecture, many traditions are kept true to the European original: savour French cuisine, listen to or speak the French language, meet friendly locals, and explore the not-so-French subarctic landscapes! Combined with fantastic fauna, this archipelago will present you with a trip of a lifetime. Experience Europe in North America at Saint Pierre and Miquelon!