Wallis and Futuna, Islands of Hidden Treasures
16,000 km from France lies its overseas collectivity, the islands of Wallis (Uvea) and Futuna (Hoorn). They are situated southeast of Tuvalu, west of Samoa, northeast of Fiji, northwest of Tonga, and southwest of Tokelau. The land area is 142.42 km² (54,99 sq mi), and the population is, as of 2023, 11,151 people. The territory is divided into three kingdoms: Uvea, on Wallis Island, the largest and most populous one; Sigave, on the west of Futuna Island; and Alo, on the eastern part of Futuna Island and the uninhabited Alofi Island.
History
The history of Wallis and Futuna is considered to have begun 3,400 years ago, when these islands were settled by the Lapita people who originated from Taiwan and other regions of East Asia. In the 15th century, Uvea saw the arrival of settlers from Tonga, who established a chiefdom system preserved to this day. As for Futuna, its first inhabitants resisted Tongan invasion for two centuries. However, in the 17th century, Samoans arrived and settled on the islands. The kingdoms as we know them now came into being in the 18th century.
The first sighting of Futuna and Alofi took place in 1616. Dutch merchant ship’s sailors landed and named the lands the Hoorn Islands. In 1767, Uvea received its current name from a British naval officer Samuel Wallis. A curious fact is that there were alternative names given to both islands — The Consolation for Wallis and The Lost Child for Futuna.
In 1837, Wallis and Futuna had the first permanent European settlers — the Marist missionaries who were set the task of converting the islands’ indigenous population to Catholicism. By 1842 in Wallis and 1846 in Futuna, everyone had turned Catholic; this confession remains the only one spread in the territory until now.
Wallis and Futuna escaped colonisation due to the Protectorate Treaty with France concluded in 1887-1888. However, during World War II, the islands were occupied by U.S. army forces. The profit from that period is defences and infrastructure built by Americans, such as roads, airports, and wharves.
In 1959, a referendum was held, following which Wallis and Futuna became an integral part of the French Republic, receiving the status of an overseas territory. In 2003, this status was changed to an overseas collectivity.
Population
Two thirds of the population lives in Wallis, while one third lives in Futuna. The territory is divided into three kingdoms, namely, Uvea in Wallis, Alo and Sigave in Futuna. Kings are members of the Territorial Council and take part in local issues. They are assisted by a Prime Minister, customary ministers, and village chiefs (the so-called Chieftaincy). However, the main government body is the High Administration (or Prefecture) located in Mata-Utu, the principal town in Wallis. The prefect is a representative of the French Government ensuring that the decisions concerning the collectivity are put into effect.
Culture and Customs
The culture of Wallis and Futuna is a blend of Polynesian and French traditions. As was mentioned before, the islands of Wallis and Futuna are different in their heritage because of different backgrounds (Tongan in Wallis and Samoan in Futuna). Thus, the customs and languages also differ. French influence is mostly seen in Catholicism, which still plays an important role in islanders’ daily lives. Mass is celebrated on every significant occasion but is accompanied by local practices, such as kava and katoaga.
Before the christianisation by Europeans, kava used to be a means to pray to the gods. Actually, kava is a plant whose roots and branches are used to prepare a ceremonial drink. The kava ceremony consists in handing the kava drink to the person playing a key role in the occasion. For example, this tradition is observed by the enthronement of kings and their chiefs, as well as by any public or private celebrations and negotiations.
Katoaga, in its turn, is a gathering of people around their chiefs due to a significant event. The ceremony involves sharing of gifts and is followed by dancing and singing (in case the celebration is a happy one). All the participants are expected to wear traditional costumes.
Speaking about culture, it is necessary to mention the arts and crafts made by local people. Wallisians and Futunians are skilled at making: hand painted cloth made from the bark of the mulberry tree, various items woven from pandanus or palm leaves (such as mats, baskets, and fans), necklaces from seashells or seeds, wood carvings, outrigger canoes, coconut oil and perfumes, and traditional garments.
The kahoa kakala is a unique creation of Wallis and Futuna — a garland made from flowers, leaves and seeds. Garlands are popular and are worn on a daily basis, like the usual accessories.
Sights and Activities
Due to Wallis and Futuna’s remoteness, its nature remained largely intact, not spoilt by the herds of tourists. In fact, only about 100 people visit the islands annually; cruise ships stop here only several times per year. All this contributes to Wallis and Futuna’s description of «islands out of time».
Wallis
Wallis boasts a lagoon fascinating with its pristine beauty. It comprises 13 small islets, all of which are uninhabited. Azure waters welcome you to take a dip, do snorkelling, kitesurfing, kayaking, canoeing, or engage in any other interaction with water.
Wallis’s sights include a number of historical and archaeological sites, for example, a remarkable Tongan fortress, one of the best preserved in the Pacific. History enthusiasts may be interested in visiting the U.S. Occupation Museum, whose exhibition showcases artifacts left from World War II. One of the most exciting natural sights in Wallis is Lake Lalolalo, one of the largest crater lakes in the region. Nowadays, you can sip in the views of the whole lake from a lookout.
As for cultural sites, Wallis has quite a lot of churches. The most impressive of them is Mata-Utu Cathedral, built from lava rocks and coral. The faithful make a yearly pilgrimage here to sing, dance, and make offerings. Churches are the main places for communication amongst locals, so if you’d like to know them better, it would be a good idea to visit some of their temples.
Hihifo airport offers a unique opportunity to take a scenic flight over the lagoon. Moreover, don’t miss your chance to go fishing in Wallis and Futuna’s waters, which are abundant with marine life. If you feel creative, try to learn the local craftspeople’s secrets and put them into practice creating your own souvenir.
Futuna
When staying in Futuna, keep in mind that this island, unlike its neighbour, has no lagoon, so you will be surrounded by the Pacific Ocean itself: therefore, be careful when swimming.
Futuna has mountainous terrain and is rich in rivers, supplying large taro terraces which remind us of Asian rice fields. From there, you can enjoy magnificent views of the surrounding scenery. The island is a great spot for hikers who can attempt to climb Mount Puke, 524 m high. The path runs through lush tropical rainforest and promises an unforgettable experience.
Like Wallis, Futuna is a nice playground for water activities, specifically, surfing. The most popular cultural places of interest are the cannibal oven at Lafua, the ancient tomb of King Fakavelikele, and the Poi Basilica, built on the site where the only Oceania’s canonised martyr's deceased. April 28 is the day of Saint Peter Chanel’s worship, attracting hundreds of people from the whole Pacific Region.
The island of Alofi, which has only one inhabitant, is a landmark itself: virgin nature both on land (mountains and beaches) and underwater (one of the world’s best preserved coral reefs) makes you feel like you are in paradise. No wonder that this tiny island is planned to be added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
You can reach Alofi by jetty situated in Vele, in the south of Futuna. Once there, hire a guide to take you to Loka Cave, which is an incredible place where the ocean waves meet the island’s imposing cliffs.
Accommodation
Predictably, the choice of stays isn’t large in Wallis and Futuna. Wallis, the more populated island, has several small family-run hotels, an inn, a B&B, and a guest house. Futuna, the less populated island, offers two hotels, a guest house, and several homestay rentals. Let’s have a look at the options.
Wallis
| Name, type | Location | Facilities | Nearby |
| Auberge TANOA, backpacker B&B | Mata’Utu | WiFi, restaurant | Kafika stadium, Fenuarama shopping mall |
| Gite Oceania | Mata’Utu | Air conditioning, free Internet access, Teone snack bar, fully-equipped kitchen, shared lounge | Mata’Utu Cathedral, Royal Palace, quay |
| Hotel Lomipeau | 8 km from the airport, 800 m from Mata’Utu | Lagoon | |
| Hotel Moana Hou | Aka’aka | Air conditioning, terraces, 24-hour reception service, free WiFi, TV, fridge | Hakake islets, 500 m from Vakala watersports centre, 1.5 km from Mata’Utu Cathedral and the Royal Palace |
| Hotel Ulukula | Mata’Utu | Private bathroom, TV, free WiFi, restaurant, private car park | Territorial Assembly, the Higher Administration (Prefecture) |
| Lausikula guesthouse | Lotoalahi village | Air conditioning, TV, free Internet access, breakfast | Lausikula chapel, lake Lalolalo |
| Villa Nukumalolo | Ha’Afuasia village | Air conditioning, 3 bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom, terrace, garden |
Futuna
| Name, type | Location | Facilities | Nearby |
| Gite Mani | Kolia village | 5 rooms, wide veranda | Vele airfield |
| Hotel Fiafia | Nuku | Napoleon suite with Empire decor Car rental service, free private parking, a guided tour through Futuna’s historic sites, restaurant |
5 mins from the administrative centre |
| Somalama park hotel | Toloke | 8 rooms, free Internet access, restaurant | Seafront |
To learn more about accommodation in Wallis and Futuna, head to https://www.wallis-futuna.travel/en/what-to-see-do/accommodation.
Getting To
The only airline operating flights to Wallis and Futuna is Air Caledonie International. You can choose one of three flights per week heading to Wallis: Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. If you fly from Europe, the flight will have two transfers: the first is either in Tokyo or Seoul, the second — in Nouméa (New Caledonia) or Nandi (Fiji).
As for inter-island flights, there are three flights per week. The journey lasts one hour; the plane’s capacity is ten passengers. Take notice that the seat cannot be booked online; instead, you have to address a local travel agency.
A scheduled boat service is currently unavailable; it applies to both international and inter-island transportation. If you possess a boat, you may cast anchor either in Wallis or Futuna.
Conclusion
Wallis and Futuna remain an off-the-beaten-path destination, with only about 100 tourists visiting them annually. This means that local nature is still authentic and unspoilt, allowing you to be one of the few who get to experience its out-of-time beauty. The same applies to accommodations that preserve their homely rather than luxurious feel, and hospitable people, who gladly share their traditions and stories with foreigners. Get acquainted with Wallis and Futuna, the secluded and pristine paradise away from today's bustling world.